PUTTING THE "HAM" IN HAMBURGER

Why's it called a hamburger if there's no ham in it? Today, we had some family coming over, so we decided to make a hamburger that actually had something to do with ham. I chose to grind the meat myself to make sure it was exactly what I wanted. The pink ground meat at the store has all the fat smeared into it, and just can't compete with properly ground, fresh meat. When the store ground meat is cooked, all the fat drips right out of it, but home ground meat retains its moisture because the fat is in tiny chunks that can hold on.

I used about 5.25 pounds of chuck roast to 1.25 pounds of pork shoulder, along with 3 Tbls Seasoned Salt, 2 Tbls Worcestershire Sauce, and 2 Tbls Fresh garlic.

I diced all the meat, mixed in the seasonings, and put it in the freezer for two hours to firm up for grinding. The time in the freezer is essential because it allows the grinder to cut the meat, rather than smash and tear it. After grinding, I mixed the meat a bit with the paddle attachment of my mixer, divided it into 1/2 pound balls, and got to patty making.

I broke each ball in half, folded a slice of american cheese (no other cheese can achieve quite the same liquidy texture as good old american), and sandwiched it inside the middle of each patty.

Here they are completed, with their secret cargoes of cheese...

Then, it was off to the barbecue to cook over medium indirect heat for around 30 minutes. These burgers were so thick that, had I cooked them over the coals, they would have burned on the outside, but been raw in the center. I moved the patties around carefully to make sure that they all got the right amount of heat and browning.

Here are the hammies right after being flipped. As the cheese in the center of each patty begins to melt, it liquifies, seeps through every nook and cranny of the meat, and comes oozing out like lava from heaven.

I topped the patties with more cheese and cooked them to a final temperature of about 160F.

We served the patties with bacon, avocado, and all the usual fixuns...

I think these were the best burger patties I have ever made. I'm definitely a fan of the porky hamburger, and will not be going back to the all beef patty if I have any choice in the matter. The meat just had a great flavor to it that you can't get with beef alone. 

The only thing I would change is the cheese. I thought that american would be perfect since it would liquefy so well, which it did, but something about american cheese with such a premium patty was not quite right. These things deserve a higher class of cheese... possibly something a little milder that will give some nice creaminess, but not mask the taste of the meat too much. .. maybe a gouda or a brie? Anyhew, the american was delicious in its own way, and I have no regrets.

These patties were a hit, and I plan on fine tuning them a bit, but I think I've finally got the burger I've been looking for... all I needed to do was put back the ham.

GET FLANKY

I've never tried it before, but I grilled some flank steak today... it was quite fantastic. If you want an easy, low maintenance cut of meat, this is it. Not quite as tender as tri-tip, but really flavorful and very fast to prepare. If you feel like barbecue, but don't want to put in a whole day of work... give flank steak a try and you won't be disappointed.

I rubbed the steaks with horseradish, garlic, and olive oil, then barbecued them over very high heat. After about 4 minutes a side, they were medium rare.

After a 10 minute rest, I sliced the steaks across the grain, and sprinkled them with a bit of sea salt.

French rolls were then piled high with horseradish and the meat. I also grilled some mushrooms and potatoes that we tossed with baby greens and coated in a lemon-dill vinaigrette. It was an excellent salad, but the leftover vinaigrette was even better on the meat along with the horseradish. The lemon and dill were fresh, clean flavors that just added that extra little something that made this especially tasty.

Flank steak is definitely on my radar from now on. With a cooking time of only 8 minutes for a feast like this, its work to taste ratio is off the charts...

ELEGANCE AND MEAT

We had to go to Whittier for a doctor's appointment yesterday, and on the way home, we followed up a tip on an awesome Italian market, where I had one of the best sandwiches I've had in a long, long time. This market sold imported Bresaola, Coppa Seca, Prosciutto, and Sharp Provolone... all of which went onto the sandwich they made for me. My only regret is that I should have cut back on the standard toppings to let these fine meats have the center stage they deserved... the mustard, peperoncinis, etc, masked some of the subtle flavors of the meat Next time, I'm going for meat, mayo, tomato, and a little lettuce. Also, I loved the flavor of the sharp provolone, but it, too, took away from the meat. Next time, I'm going to inquire about bufala mozzarella, which would just be completely ridiculous.

We also got some sliced meat to bring home... My wife and I both decided that the Coppa Seca was our favorite. Here are a few pictures of the cuts in our fridge so that you can see what we're talking about...

This is Bresaola. It is a cured beef top round, and has a texture similar to prosciutto, except leaner and meatier. This is my second favorite cured meat.

This is the Coppa Seca. It comes from the portion of the pig that is just forward of the tenderloin, over the shoulder. This was our favorite cut. It falls somewhere between prosciutto and bresaola, in that it has some nice meatiness to it, but isn't too rich, either. I like that the fat is incorporated within the slice, instead of on the outer edge, like prosciutto.. it gives you a more balanced fattiness in every bite.

We also got some Salame, which deserves an honorable mention, although, in my opinion, the art form that is Coppa cannot be contended with... This salame was some of the best I've had, with really tasty seasonings, and just the right amount of acidity.

Our dinner last night made my already great day. We had Garruch di Pumarole (which deserves its own blog post), with a side of these incredible meats and a little Chianti....  The world suddenly just seems so right. One day, I hope to make all three of these delicious works of art on my own.... but until then, I plan on doing lots of research ;)

BEEF STEAK OUT

It's all well and good having a steak recipe, but if you don't know how to pick a good steak, it can only help so much. Realizing that I really didn't understand the finer points of selecting a quality steak, I decided to do a little research into the matter. I found a lot of interesting facts that will definitely help me out next time I'm staring at the meat case looking for a hunk of beef:

The three most popular cuts of steak are the fillet (or tenderloin), the ribeye, and the New York (or strip).....Which cut should I buy? 

It seems that, in general, there is a balance between tenderness and flavor. A fillet is going to be the most tender, but it is also the most lean, so it has the least flavor. The New York is somewhere in the middle, and the ribeye will be the juiciest and most flavorful, but will also be a bit tougher than the other two. If you're having some trouble with indecision, you could also go for a t-bone or porterhouse, which will have a piece of fillet on the small side, and a piece of New York on the large side, separated by a bone. Personally, flavor is the most important factor, and I don't find ribeye to be too tough, so it is my personal favorite.

So... I'm gonna try for a ribeye (unless there is a really good deal on one of the other types), but what do I look for when I'm buying it?

• Marbling - You want lots of fine flecks and thin ribbons of fat in the meat.  Avoid thick lines of fat running through the meat. More marbling means more juiciness and more flavor after the meat is cooked.
• Grade - the grade is more or less tied in with the marbling. The grades are Prime, Choice, and Select, in that order. The markets will try to trick you by using brand names like "rancher's reserve", or by using the word "prime" elsewhere on the packaging, so look for the grade labeled inside the USDA shield, and ignore everything else.

This picture from the USDA shows prime, choice, and select from left to right...notice the difference in marbling. If you want to save money, but have an amazing steak, the goal is to try for a steak that is just shy of being graded up a level. Alternatively, if you're gonna shell out for the prime, make sure it is at the high end of prime, and didn't just barely get into the club....

• 
  
  Thickness - At least 1" thick, and uniform. Uneven steaks don't cook evenly. I like to buy extra thick steaks for the people who like their steak rare and thinner steaks for those that like it more well done. This way, they all cook the same amount of time and come out right for everyone.
  
  
  
• Aging - If you can find it (and want to pay extra), dry aged beef is going to be much more flavorful than your normal supermarket meat. If they have it at the market, it will probably be in the butcher case and not pre-packaged. Dry aging allows the enzymes in the meat to tenderize the meat and concentrate the flavors making a better tasting steak.
• Color - You want vibrant medium red to dark pink... not ruby red, not dark, and definitely not gray.

If you want the perfect steak, it is going to cost a lot. Avoid the supermarket...You should go to a specialty butcher or specialty market, and use your new steak knowledge to make sure you're not getting swindled. Don't buy a shrink wrapped piece of meat. A really quality steak will come wrapped in butcher paper and cut to order.

If you want a reasonable steak for dinner, take your time, examine each steak carefully, and use your new know-how to pick out the best ones.

A couple other quick pointers I ran across while figuring all this out:

• A perfect rare steak will be at 125 degrees in the center.
• Don't trim the fat or the bone before cooking. These help keep the steak moist and add flavor. You can trim the steak after cooking if you want to.
• Never grill a cold steak. Let them come to room temperature for at least 30 minutes before cooking. 

STEAKS

OK, just a quick couple things I've noticed over the past couple days, making steaks with my brother and friends:

1. Salt cure your steaks: Bury them in coarse kosher salt for no more than 30 minutes, unrefrigerated, then rinse the salt off and pat dry.
2. Rub the steaks with olive oil.
3. Put on a thick rub. I used lots of coarse ground black pepper and smoked paprika (no need for more salt).
4. Make sure the coals and grill are extremely extremely hot, and also make sure the coals are ALL fully ignited (partially ignited coals gave off a bitter smoke you will taste in the meat) and quickly put the lid on the barbecue if you get any open flames (they will deposit soot on the meat and add a bitter taste)
5. Cook for 3-5 minutes a side. Test the doneness by poking with your finger. It should feel firm with a light touch, but you should be able to feel a little softness or give if you push harder. (if it springs back hard as you push, it is overcooked)
6. Let the meat rest for 5-10 minutes
7. Coat with a sauce. I used: Butter, roasted garlic, horseradish, dijon mustard, and worcestershire sauce to make a melted butter sauce and brushed it over the steaks.
8. Grunt like a sophisticated caveman.